Day 2.8/37: May 5, 2017: Foncebadón to Molinaseca

May 04, 2025

Molinaseca, Spain

May 5, 2017
Molinaseca

20.47km; 6:03hr; 53500 steps; 180m elevation gain

This is the day we cross over the pass, the highest point on the Camino at 1530m. The pass is marked by a pile of stones and an iron cross. Pilgrims begin their journey carrying stones in their packs to represent their burdens and their prayers. This is where they are left behind.

The tradition pre-dates Christianity as ancient Roman travelers would leave stones at the top of passes as a tribute to Mercury, who watched over commerce and travelers. A local hermit Christianized the monument by sticking an iron cross on top. But, the monument transcends religion and is truly the spiritual highlight for the Camino.

At this point pilgrims have been physically tested by mountains and blisters, and wind and rain. In the first third of the Camino, we learn to deal with the physical challenges. Then we are confronted with a vast expanse, an eternity to walk across. The Meseta confronts us with the mental challenge and gives us time to think. From here, pilgrims embark on the spiritual segment of the Camino leading to Santiago. What does it mean? What do I mean?

The weather forecast predicted rain starting mid-morning, and having walked this segment before, I knew it would be best if we weren't caught in the open. So, we departed in the pre-dawn darkness. Fortunately Lisa brought along a headlamp, because it was still quite dark at 06:00, and we had a 30 min climb to get to the top. But, soon I found myself walking ahead, out of the range of the light so that I could enjoy the quiet twilight and was rewarded by a spectacular shooting star.

Then it was there. It really is just a pile of rocks, a telephone pole and a cross; but this site has power like no other. The stones each hold a memory and a hope, a thought and a prayer. Almost a year ago, I was here and left a stone in memory of my parents, who passed away many years ago now, but who walk with me every day. I left a stone as a prayer for the sick mother of a friend, who is now at peace. And I carried a third stone in memory of Kato, my beloved dog, whom I still miss, though less painfully.

This year I carried two stones and wrapped them in a red bandana. If you pass this way, and find two stones in a red bandana, hold them for a second and add your prayers to mine.

Because we were on the road so early, we had time to savor the moment alone with our thoughts. Last year when I was here, it was a circus of pilgrims, tour busses and selfies. A bit of thought and feeling is what I needed. Passing this hill completes my journey. This is where I jumped ahead last year; so, now the gap is closed.

From here we passed into the Bierzo region, a local microclimate and subculture enjoying popularity as an up and coming wine district. The mountain views were truly stunning as we descended steeply through the heather and the small Camino towns.

Last year when I passed, the towns were full of life, but today it was all but deserted. I think the pilgrims ahead of us had gotten out early to avoid the rain, and we were ahead today's wave of pilgrims.