Day 8: May 16, 2016 Logroño to Nájera
Nájera, Spain
Logroño was a classic example of over-performance. I expected little, but absolutely loved the town. The cathedral was beautiful, but the real charm was in the tapas and pinxos. There are two streets entirely devoted to tapas, each lined with small bars offering an indoor counter and an an an outdoor to-go window. The wines from the region are great and the tapas/pinxos offerings were amazing with each bar trying to out-do the next with their special creation.
As a non-Spanish speaker it was difficult to know what to order. I even resorted to texting my Spanish-speaking friend Ara for advice. His response was to "eat and drink everything", but that the Camino del Vino Tinto might slow me down. Indeed the locals refer to the neighborhood as the elephant walk, because you will be on all-fours if you have a glass with every stop. I was good though, and back to the albergue before curfew.
May 16, 2016
Nájera
Puerto de Nájera
19.8 miles, 49007 steps, 16 flights, 7:56 hr
The road to Nájera was pleasant. With my one-day delay in Los Arcos, many of the people I had previously left behind had caught up, some good, some bad. In any case, I found myself once again a part of the pack. Most pilgrims use the same guidebook, and too many religiously follow the recommended stopping points. This results in crowded albergues, seeing the same people every day, and an institutional experience. I wanted to break away from the pack, but hesitated to push too hard because of my feet.
In my pre-Camino research notes, I had written "avoid Nájera!". At this point I can't remember what prompted this warning... all the same, Nájera was the next stop. The town was nice enough, but clearly their main business was serving and scamming passing pilgrims. One shop owner tried to short change me on a transaction; but I was paying attention, and the conflict was easily resolved. Local children offered to give me tour of the cathedral and I agreed. We were all disappointed to find it closed. I met fellow pilgrims from the first day Ben and Leslie for dinner, and was delighted that Anja, the foot healer from Los Arcos was also there.
Not much more to say.
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